Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday of the year.

As a professionally trained chef and longtime culinary writer, food, for me, is the most authentic form of communication. It’s honest and pure, delicious and satiating. Food can bridge the starkest of divides — political, religious and more — like little else. Thanksgiving celebrates this, with no shortage of calories or love.

What I appreciate most about the holiday is gathering with loved ones over a shared meal, which my partner, Valerie, and I usually do.

But with a surge of COVID-19 cases nationwide and hospitals reaching capacity — and family gatherings considered a significant reason for the crisis — Val and I have canceled our “Long Table” Thanksgiving tradition this year….