Noelle Carter Food

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Kitchen basics: How to measure butter without the wrapper (and use it to make this buttery brioche recipe)

Brioche rolls. (Noelle Carter)

With so many of us heeding orders to stay at home in these times, a lot of us are rediscovering — or learning for the first time about — kitchen basics. We’re cooking and baking in greater numbers now than we have in decades. And not without reason.

We all have to eat.

I’m going to start to share daily cooking and baking posts, along with handy kitchen tips. Whether you’re new to the kitchen, or feel a bit rusty when it comes to a particular skill or technique, I hope to help with these posts. And if you’re looking for any particular information or recipe, contact me and I’ll do my best to help you out, or point you to the right resource. You can reach me at: noelle@noellecarterfood.com.

We’ve all been there before. The recipe calls for 8 tablespoons of butter, but you're out of those handy sticks with the measure conveniently printed on the wrapper, and are left with only unmarked bits hanging out in the fridge.

What do you do?

Fill a measuring cup part-way with cold water, and drop in your cold butter bits until the measure reaches the quantity you need. For 8 tablespoons butter, fill a measuring cup with, say, one-half cup water. Add butter until it reaches one cup (one-fourth cup equals 8 tablespoons). Voila.

The method even works with butter left out at room temperature; simply make sure the water is very cold so the butter doesn't melt as it's added and measured.

Use the method, if needed, to make the rich and buttery brioche recipe below.

BRIOCHE ROLLS

1 hour, plus rising times. Makes 8 to 12 rolls, depending on size

  • 3/4 cup milk, divided

  • 1 package (2 1/2 teaspoons) active dry yeast

  • 1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar, divided

  • 3 eggs, divided

  • 10 tablespoons (1 stick plus 2 tablespoons) butter, at room temperature

  • 3 1/2 cups bread flour (15.75 ounces), plus more for dusting

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  1. In a small pan, heat one-half cup plus 2 tablespoons of milk over medium heat, just until warmed. Remove from heat, and pour the milk into a small bowl or measuring cup. Stir in the yeast and 1 teaspoon of sugar, then set aside until the milk is foamy and the yeast is activated, about 10 minutes.

  2. Whisk 2 eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer using the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl with a hand mixer) until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Stir in the yeast mixture and remaining 1/4 cup of sugar until fully incorporated.

  3. If using a stand mixer, switch to the paddle attachment. With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until incorporated.

  4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. With the mixer running, add the flour mixture, one spoonful at a time, until fully incorporated.

  5. Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead until it is soft and somewhat silky (it’s a rich dough and won’t be entirely smooth), 5 to 7 minutes. Place the dough in a large oiled bowl and lightly cover with plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. (Alternatively, you can refrigerate the dough overnight, then take it out the next day and wait for it to come to room temperature.)

  6. Meanwhile, make an egg wash: Beat together the remaining egg with the remaining 2 tablespoons of milk.

  7. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

  8. When the dough is doubled (it will be very smooth and elastic), punch it down and divide it into 8 to 12 pieces, ranging from 4 to 2 1/2 ounces each (you will have a little over 32 ounces dough; for best results, weigh your dough and divide it using a scale). Form each piece into a ball, pinching the seams together at the base of each one. Flatten the ball so it’s about 1 inch thick and place on the prepared baking sheet; continue, spacing the rounds evenly on the prepared sheet.

  9. Lightly brush each round with the prepared wash (for deeper coloring, brush the rounds a second time after the first wash has dried), and set aside until the rounds are puffed and almost doubled in size, about 15 minutes.

  10. Bake the rounds until they are puffed and a rich golden color, 15 to 20 minutes, rotating halfway for even coloring. Cool completely on a rack before slicing and serving.

Note: From Noelle Carter.