Ever try jerk chicken? It’s one of my favorite marinades to play with during the summer months. Combining a rich assortment of herbs, spices, and flavorings, it’s a wild ride for your mouth —first sweet and tangy, and then POW! Your tastebuds are punched with spicy heat.

Originating on the Caribbean island of Jamaica, jerk started out as a dry blend, rubbed on meats to season before cooking. The ingredients will vary depending on the cook, but generally combine a variety of spices — allspice, ginger, cloves and cinnamon, garlic, onion and chiles. Many recipes add some sort of sweetener to layer the flavors with sweet caramel notes. Add some liquid — vinegar, lime juice, rum, oil — and you have a marinade.

I first started playing with jerk marinades when I was in culinary school, and the recipe below is the same one I’ve served to family and friends since my cooking school’s graduation. I ran the recipe a few years later when I did a story on marinades for the Los Angeles Times.

QUICK TIP: When working with hot chiles — Scotch Bonnets, habaneros, etc. — wear gloves to protect your hands from the heat in the chiles’ oils, and be careful to protect your eyes. The first time I worked with habaneros, I didn’t take this seriously, and cut up over a pound to use in some preparation. My hands started hurting within a few hours, and stung for days. Since then, I have a lot of respect for those cute little things.

GRILLED JERK CHICKEN

20 minutes plus marinating and grilling time. Serves 6

1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns

3/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

2 tablespoons salt

1/4 cup muscovado or dark brown sugar

3 to 9 Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers, seeded and chopped

4 teaspoons minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced ginger

2 bunches scallions, finely chopped (green and white parts)

1/2 cup oil

Zest and juice of 4 limes

1/4 cup white vinegar

1/2 cup dark rum

1 (4- to 6-pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces

1. In a large bowl, combine the peppercorns, nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, salt, sugar, peppers, garlic, ginger, scallions, oil, lime zest and juice, vinegar and rum. Add the chicken pieces and toss to coat.

2. Place the chicken and marinade in a large, sealable plastic bag. Squeeze out the air and seal the bag. Place the bag in the refrigerator and marinate the chicken overnight, up to 24 hours.

3. Remove the chicken from the marinade and grill on an oiled rack over medium-high heat until the meat is firm and the juices run clear and a thermometer inserted reads 165 degrees. Remove the chicken to a platter and set aside for a few minutes before serving.

Note: From Noelle Carter. Adapted from a recipe I first published in the Los Angeles Times. Muscovado sugar owes its rich color and deep flavor to its high molasses content, and can be found at most cooking and baking supply stores. Wear gloves while chopping the Scotch bonnet or habanero peppers because the heat in the oils can sting your hands. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling the peppers.