Done right, meatloaf is a meat lover’s dream come true. Like so many of our favorite comfort foods, the dish is borne of humble beginnings. It started out as a way to stretch various leftovers — ground meats, stale bread crumbs, a blend of spices and flavorings — into supplemental meals. And like so many iconic dishes, meatloaf variations can be found the world over, from French pâté to Middle Eastern kibbe, Vietnamese gio to South African bobotie — even Swedish and Italian meatballs.

And while it may be hard to find a “bad” meatloaf, there are ways to improve upon an already great dish. This recipe is adapted from one I created to run with a story I did on meatloaf a few years ago. It combines a blend of ground beef and pork, combining the meats with sautéed mushrooms and onion for a little umami effect. I fold in the requisite bread crumbs, tossing them with heavy cream and also adding marinara sauce to keep the loaf tender and moist as it bakes. There’s a cup of grated Parmesan cheese (because everything is better with cheese, right?) and a simple blend of spices and seasonings for added flavor. Finally, I always line the loaf with a layer of bacon — not only does it look spectacular when you parade your creation out to the guests, but the bacon is also functional, actually basting the meatloaf as it bakes, adding extra moisture and flavor.

BACON-WRAPPED MEATLOAF

About 2 hours. Serves 8 to 12

2 tablespoons olive oil, more if needed

10 ounces button or crimini mushrooms, finely chopped (about 2 cups)

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Several grinds of pepper

2 cups chopped onion, from about 1 large

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon ground fennel

3 cloves garlic, put through a press

1/4 cup red wine

1 1/2 cups bread crumbs, made from stale bread

2/3 cup heavy cream

1 pound bacon

1 large egg

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 cup marinara sauce

1/3 cup chopped Italian parsley

1 pound ground beef (10% fat)

1 pound ground pork

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a large sauté pan heated over medium-high heat, add the oil and mushrooms and sauté, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms have given up their liquid and started to color, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the salt and pepper, then the onions (if the pan is a little dry, add an additional tablespoon oil). Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the red pepper flakes and fennel, then the garlic, cooking until the spices are aromatic, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in the wine, scraping any flavoring from the bottom of the pan. Remove the mushroom mixture to a large mixture and set aside to cool.
Meanwhile, combine the bread crumbs with the heavy cream and set aside to soak.
Line a 9- by 5- by 3-inch loaf baking dish with bacon slices (layer them in strips, hanging the edges over, r weave the strips to create a tight lattice top). If you have a few strips left over, save them for when you assemble the loaf.
To the cooled mushroom mixture, stir in the soaked bread crumbs, then the egg, cheese, marinara sauce and parsley until well combined. Knead in the beef and pork until thoroughly incorporated, careful not to overmix.
Gently but firmly pack the meatloaf mixture into the prepared dish, making sure there are no air bubbles and being careful not to disrupt the bacon slices. There should be just enough mixture to fill the loaf pan and mound slightly at the top. If you have any leftover bacon strips, lay them lengthwise across the top of the meatloaf, then fold over any hanging bacon strip edges so the loaf is completely covered with bacon.
Very carefully invert the prepared loaf onto a 13- by 9-inch baking dish, slowly removing the loaf dish from the top of the meatloaf.
Bake the meatloaf for 1 hour and 15 minutes, then increase the temperature to 400 degrees. Continue baking until the meatloaf is crisp and a thermometer inserted into the center of the meatloaf reaches 165 degrees, 15 to 30 minutes. Remove and set the meatloaf aside to rest for at least 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Note: From Noelle Carter. Adapted from a recipe I created that originally ran in the Los Angeles Times.