There’s an old fig tree at the bottom of the driveway leading up to the family home in Sacramento. It’s a massive tree, and it grows like a weed if it doesn’t get an annual pruning. Even after a good trim, it produces hundreds of pounds of large brown turkey figs each summer, the fruit ripening for just a few short weeks under the blistering heat.
That short glorious window is one of my favorite times of the year, and, when I’m not snacking on them as I work around the yard, I’ll add figs to any and every dish I can. And I know I’m not the first fan. The storied fruit — actually, a fig is really an inverted flower — has been prized since ancient times, both in and out of the kitchen. But as a culinary muse, I’d argue it’s close to perfection. Lightly sweet, and with a tender texture and delicate crunch owing to all of the seeds in the center, figs work well in a variety of dishes both sweet and savory, from salads to tarts, gracing cheese platters or roasted alongside thick pork chops under a port wine glaze.
One of my favorite dishes is a simple grilled salad combining the fruit with fennel and radicchio. Grilling figs really deepens the flavor of the fruit, charring the sugars in the figs to rich, almost nutty caramelization. The sweetness is a nice balance to the bold flavors of the radicchio and fennel, and, when tossed with an herbed sherry vinaigrette (rosemary and thyme work well with figs in savory dishes), crumbled fresh goat cheese and toasted walnuts, the finished salad is an elegant showstopper of a dish, whether you’re serving company or simply planning a weeknight meal for the family.
GRILLED FIG SALAD WITH FENNEL AND RADICCHIO
40 minutes. Serves 4
1/3 cup walnut halves
Salt
Best quality olive oil
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1/2 teaspoon chopped thyme
1/4 teaspoon chopped rosemary
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
8 ripe figs, preferably turkey
1 head radicchio
1 large head fennel
4 ounces fresh goat cheese (1 small log)
In a small bowl, toss the walnuts with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil. Spread the nuts on a sheet pan and toast in a 350-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the shallots, thyme, rosemary, vinegar and 6 tablespoons olive oil. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a grind of black pepper, or to taste. This makes a scant 2/3 cup vinaigrette.
Halve the figs lengthwise. Remove any wilted outer leaves from the radicchio and slice it lengthwise into 8 wedges. Trim the top off the fennel and slice the bulb crosswise into 1/2-inch strips, discarding the core.
Brush the radicchio wedges with a little of the vinaigrette and place them on an oiled grill heated over medium-high heat. Grill the wedges until slightly wilted with defined grill marks, about 2 minutes on each side. Do the same with the fennel.
For the figs, brush the cut side with the vinaigrette and place the halves on the grill, cut-side down. After about 30 seconds, rotate slightly and cook for an additional 30 seconds before carefully removing and setting aside.
Divide the radicchio, fennel and figs evenly among 4 plates. Crumble the goat cheese evenly over the salads, and scatter the toasted walnuts over each serving. Drizzle a little of the remaining vinaigrette over each salad. Serve immediately.
Note: From Noelle Carter. Adapted from a recipe I originally shared in the Los Angeles Times.